
LONDON — A curtain of snow fell on London
Fashion Week on Friday as top designer Julien Macdonald sent
fur-clad models gliding through a wintry wonderland for the last
show.
Snowflakes and glitter floated down from the
ceiling of a ballroom at the London Hilton Hotel, where the
audience viewed the Welsh designer’s autumn-winter collection
from seats draped in white cloth.
Macdonald, whose extensive use of fur has
brought him plenty of criticism, sent models down the runway in
black, brown and grey fur coats over short skirts or voluminous
trousers.
Knitwear was also prominent, with models
wearing thick knitted leggings and jumpers.
But the designer famous for putting pop stars
into "barely there" dresses did not let the wintry weather theme
get in the way of showing off glamorous evening gowns.
One smoky-eyed girl with a mane of platinum
blonde hair wore a dress cloaked in gold and black feathers with
black leather gloves and spiky heels.
"The Julien Macdonald woman is the woman who
loves clothes, loves fashion, loves to go out, loves to be seen
– not a woman who hides in a corner but just a woman who really
enjoys herself," the designer told reporters after the show,
adding that the collection was partly inspired by Anjelica
Huston.
Earlier in the day, Scottish designer Graeme
Black clothed his models in tartan pencil skirts, elbow-length
leather gloves and slinky tops for his first show at London
Fashion Week.
Skirts and frocks were cut below the knee,
but the look was seductive. "I was inspired by Miss Jean Brodie,
and being prim and beautiful and sensual and proper," said
Black, referring to the unorthodox 1930’s Scottish teacher in
Muriel Spark’s novel.
The designer, who launched his eponymous
label two years ago, spent the last 15 years in Italy, heading
design for Armani Black Label and Ferragamo Womens- wear. But he
returned to his Scottish roots for his own autumn-winter
collection.
The iconic kilt was reinterpreted in
embroidered suede and tweed, while organza and jersey fabrics
were beaded with Celtic motifs.
If the Graeme Black label was previously
entirely manufactured in Italy, this show introduced a part of
the collection "made in Scotland," focusing on cashmeres, fine
woven textiles and hand knits.
This was "something to be justly proud of
against the backdrop of the fashion industry’s relentless move
of manufacturing away from its traditional, historical roots,"
read the notes accompanying the show.
Scotland has provided inspiration for several
shows this season, with young designer Henry Holland staging a
"Highland fling" on Wednesday complete with purple tartan
antlers and tartan minikilts.
Vivienne Westwood, staging her first London
show in nine years, also used tartan in her Red Label
collection, which drew on the punk era and rock ‘n’ roll.
The return of celebrated designers such as
Vivienne Westwood, Luella Bartley and Graeme Black has brought
an extra buzz to London Fashion Week, reinvigorated by
up-and-coming names Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab and Christopher
Kane.
Milan Fashion Week begins on Saturday. – Reuters