THURSDAY |JANUARY 24, 2008| PHILIPPINES

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Eating Chinese in Bacolod

By JADE SNOW

M
ention of the Chinese New Year brings with it thoughts of a lauriat, mouthwatering course upon course of Chinese dishes. And when a Bacoleño hankers for Chinese, where is he to go then?

That isn’t really much of a problem as there is always bound to be a favorite Chinese eatery in every town and it is no different in Bacolod. For a newly blessed Christian in a beaded panyal, a little Bacoleña wearing a supergirl costume, or a blushing debutant, the most cherished memory happens at a lauriat. For a misty eyed bride, a golden-wed groom or a grandma celebrating more decades than she thinks she will be blessed with, lingering remembrances are laced with steamed and stir fried versions of her favorite Chinese dishes because nothing lines the stomach better than Chinese cooking.

A special occasion in the ‘60s would mean a visit to Chinese panciterias like Manila Restaurant or Antigua at the old Chinese enclave of Bacolod called the Capitol Shopping Center, the recognized root of Chinese culinary culture in the city. Names like Holiday Restaurant and United Restaurant are old favorites that have survived the decades with tasty memoirs that include among others some age-old noodle-based favorites like bam-i, a variety of hot pots and dumplings, shark’s fin and nido soups, the singular taste of century eggs and sweet chorizo bilbao. Following the same tradition of good hot Chinese food are Tita Ping’s and Lanten Restaurant. City Lunch, on the other hand, consistently offers old time favorites like siopao, batchang, matchang and its famous fresh lumpia. Of course, there’s always the dependable pot of tea on the side.

Over the years, nothing much has changed in the tradition of celebrating family milestones from a Chinese cook’s kitchen. That is, nothing much except for a pleasing development spanning more extensive choices in Bacolod which can range from the authentic, or food that has been adapted for local tastes, to something that is newly created. These would mean a variety of fresh bean curd or tofu preparation, ambiance and even health philosophies.

Our quick tour will bring us first to more luxurious dining places where special guests and elderly loved ones are made comfortable in keeping with traditional Chinese courtesies. As fish has always been associated with prosperity and wealth, on New Year’s Eve, a variety of fresh fish are on display at the Great Wok of China along North Drive. The Full Moon restaurant has a chef from Hong Kong and offers a deliciously authentic Chinese menu. The spicy seafood hotpot is sure to double your helping of fried rice and whet the appetite for more of the beef with ampalaya, a particularly tender tofu dish and the tasty fish fillet with broccoli.

Another option is Mei Wei seafood restaurant with its façade of aquariums containing fresh lobsters, crabs, eels and even turtles for turtle soup and exotic turtle fat. Its divine fingers of seafood salad rolls, spareribs in lemon sauce and broccoli with garlic will keep you coming back especially for special events of up to 200 guests which it can accommodate in a number of function rooms.

The same can be said of the all-too-familiar chow haven, the Apollo Restaurant. Apollo has been around from as far back as when pancit was still pian i sit (conveniently cooked fast) and students from La Con-solacion College would head for its pioneer Plaza Mart branch to split a bowl of lomi for snacks. Today, it has two branches catering to intimate as well as formal affairs with a wide variety of dishes including its sought after Sun Yat Sen noodles and lemon chicken.

Like in Southern China, rice too is a critical part of Bacolod Chinese cuisine. A wide variety of fried rice, from the Spanish dubbed morisquieta tostado to L’ Sea restaurant’s Yang Chow rice, are usually served family-style in panciterias like Lanten restaurant.

Armed with wooden chopsticks and wide ceramic flat-bottomed spoons, one can experience the healthy offerings of the Sian Tian Health Food Center of the Divine Institute of Chong Shu, a non-profit non-sectarian temple that believes in the karmic benefits of the vegetarian lifestyle. Diners can count on a healthy serving organic red rice with attractively prepared stuffed tofu, sweet and sour vege-fish and appetizing potato salad. The temple also sells frozen gluten products and produces bean curd in soft and hard varieties, as well as fresh soya milk. It serves a diverse clientele from all walks of life Mondays to Saturdays.

Of course, for the young and the young at heart, there is always a distinct novelle chinoise who thinks ambiance and serves an upbeat version of lumpia in his delectable prosperity sprinkles as entrée. Mai Pao is the obra maestra of an Australian trained young chef who tweaked the standard Chinese fare, an experience you would croon over a bowl of extra-filling hot and sour soup and a mouthwatering Tsinoy fusion dish called salted fish fried rice.

Truly, Bacolod has a lot to be grateful for as it welcomes the year of the Earth Rat with the third BacoLaodiat Festival from February 7-9. The term BacoLaodiat is coined from the name of the City of Bacolod and the Fookien word laodiat that means happy celebration. Bacolod City and its Tsinoy community is the first to baptize the festivity with a name and turn the Chinese New Year into a local community festival. It is the group’s vision to pump fresh blood into the birth place of Tsinoy heritage by going back to the Capitol Shopping Center as its main venue for this year’s celebration.

Among the myriad activities set for the festival is a showcase of Chinese culinary culture to include the Chinese cuisine festival, Chinese herbal and traditional medicine, cooking demos on tikoy and dumplings, the Chinese cookfest at Robinson’s Place, the Chopsticks Alley with colorful lanterns, kiosks and rolling carts lined up along 6th St. which will transform the Capitol Shopping Center into a mini-Chinatown with an open-air dining tent so that the public can comfortably enjoy the Chinese food offered at the Alley.

This only proves that chicken inasal is not the only gastronomic byword in the city of smiles… Let’s eat Chinese in Bacolod and wish each one a resounding Kung Hei Fat Choi!

 

 


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