raditional
Kapampangan cuisine will be on this month's special lunch and
dinner buffet spread at the Inter-Continental Manila's Café
Jeepney. Lilian Lising Borromeo, historian and respected
authority on traditional Kapampangan food, is supervising the
preparation of festival dishes until July 31.
In these days of fast food and instant meals,
slow food cooking is fast becoming a thing of the past. So Café
Jeepney's Destination Pampanga food promotion is an excellent
opportunity to get acquainted with old style cooking from a
province known for its gracious and delicious dining.
Borromeo is a member of the prominent Hizon
and Mercado families. Her maternal grandfather, Monico Mercado
of Sasmuan, a poet who took up arms against Spain, was a second
cousin of national hero, Jose Rizal. It was Monico who
translated Rizal's Mi Ultimo Adios into Kapampangan. The verse
novel depicting Kapampangan traditions, Quetang Milabas, is his
best known work.
During the American occupation, he served two
terms in the Philippine National Assembly. He was also a legal
adviser to and later vice-president of the Guagua National
Colleges. He passed away in 1952. Today a statue and a marker in
his honor stand in Samsuan. As the daughter of Monico Mercado's
only surviving daughter from his first wife, Borromeo is
regarded as the bearer of his torch.
She recalls a childhood spent cooking with
her mother rather than playing with dolls. Hers was a family
that appreciated good food. Her late father, a doctor of
medicine, would ask his patients to give their recipes to his
daughter so these could live on even after they had gone off to
the great beyond. As a young lady, Borromeo won in several
cooking competitions such as the Maya Cookfest in 1976 and 1977.
But it was only after 31 years of taking part in various
culinary contests that she finally gained attention and was
asked to host two cooking shows. Today tourists would motor to
her house in Mexico, Pampanga to sample her heirloom recipes
which she would prepare for them using old utensils that date
back to a hundred years or so.
She is likewise known as the maker of the
"original San Nicolas cookies." Usually baked during the feast
of St. Nicolas but now eaten all year round, the cookies were
introduced by the Spanish friars to this country around 1600.
They are made from a mixture of eggs, cake flour, cornstarch,
sugar, oil, coconut milk and scents of lemon rind or lemongrass.
For her cookies, Lilian still uses wooden molds dating back to
the 18th century.
Dishes to watch out for during the festival
at Café Jeepney are Kapampangan Adobo, Sale Manok (Lemongrass
Chicken), Kare-kareng Pampanga, Lumpiang Pancit (Noodle Spring
Roll), Pako Salad (Forest Fern Salad), Payung-payungan Soup
(Mushroom Soup), Pindang Damulag (Dried Carabao Beef), Buro with
Hito (Catfish with Fermented Rice Sauce), Sili with Atchara
Stuffing, Galantina, Paksiw Demonyo, Kilayin (Stewed Chicken),
Dinuguan, Okoy, Estofado na may Tubo, Sisig, and Onions with
Pugo.
For those with a sweet-tooth, there is Dulce Prenda (an 18th
century dessert of uraro crust with kundol, milk and lemon rind
filling), Leche Flan (made from egg yolks, carabao milk, and
sugar) with Sweet Macapuno on the side, Arroz del Cielo,
Bukayong Kamote, Tibuk-tibok, Brazo Mercedes, Kapampangan Fruit
Salad, Priting Paro, Kamias and Tomato Candies and San Nicolas
Cookies.