ILAN
- East will meet west next summer for Giorgio Armani male fans
with Asian inspired long shirts, shantung trousers and fitted
jackets, the Italian designer suggested in his menswear show,
which won him loud applause.
Armani, the last of the big names to present
his ideas at Milan's spring/summer 2009 men's shows, chose to
put bindies on the foreheads of some of his models, dressed in
flowing bright pink shirts and dark shorts for a beachy look.
The designer, one of Milan's long established
names, turned out flowing designs with perfect tailoring that
were easy to wear and relaxed. Scarves sat on shoulders instead
of hanging down the neck, and they also replaced belts on
trousers.
He favored Prince of Wales check and chalk
stripes for jackets, short and slim and worn over a double
breasted waistcoat, with a loose untucked or Asian-style shirt.
Trousers were light, varying from Indian,
Balinese or Malaysian styles, sometimes with printed patterns,
and generous in dimensions. Some were drawstring, others were
tighter below the knee. Shorts were below the knee.
"(The clothes) are relative to a type of
climate, a well-being," Armani told reporters backstage, saying
there is "a pinch of personal interest" in the collection as he
is about to open stores in India.
The main colors of the collection included an
almost-grey green, light grey, putty and violet.
Shoes came in a choice of snakeskin,
crocodile and woven hopsack, or laced, again in an Asian style.
Guests included actors Clive Owen and Adrien Brody as well as
Thai Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana.
"I loved the colors, (they were) really
amazing," Owen told Reuters after the show which ended with
Armani walking onstage to male and female models sitting
crossed-legged towards him.
At D&G, the less formal line of designers
Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, the look was nautical,
inspired by the French Riviera.
The duo stuck to white and navy blue, with
small dabs of red appearing in patterned trousers, bow-ties and
on linings.
Models walked out in peak lapel and shawl
collar button-suits, both with contrasting stitching details -
blue on white or vice versa, with shirts that had contrasting
cuffs, bow-ties and printed pochettes.
The more casual look suggested jersey vests,
slim cut trousers and bermuda shorts with nautical-themed prints
while cotton knitwear was accessorized with a silk neck scarf.
Swimwear was white and navy blue,
accessorized with white bags while for the evening, the duo
offered silk shantung white tuxedoes, which were worn with
colored or patterned bow-ties and printed pochettes.
Belstaff, whose trademark biker jackets were
a favorite of soldier and writer T.E. Lawrence, celebrated "the
great traveler," offering a collection that went from soft
linens to microfiber Nylon, or what it called the "lightest
technical fabric ever made."
Shiny waterproof jackets and trousers came in
green, indigo, lobster, grey and kiwi colors.
More than 40 designers held catwalk shows at the Milan
fashion week. - Reuters