n March 13, 1873
an adventurous young man called Francisco Entrala arrived in Manila on the day
of the horse races in Sta. Mesa. (The race track was in what is now Hippodromo
street.) He certainly chose a round-about way to get to Sta. Mesa but his might
have been because he wanted to give us a tour of some Manila suburbs. Obviously
he must have been staying in a hotel or with friends in the Walled City since he
says he crossed Calle Real in Intramuros, crossed through the massive portals of
the Puerta Parian, one of the nine that flanked the severe but now useless walls
of Manila, crossed the Puente de España that spanned the Pasig River and
proceeded to Binondo.
He passed the Hotel Oriental with tables full of Spaniards
close by Calle Rosario, a narrow street where you could see a world of Chinese
as though enclosed in a giant bubble, beside the tower of Binondo Church. He
traversed the Escolta, flirting with the ladies who threw him a glance probably
out of curiosity from their carriages.
Reaching the less commercial and gayer street of San
Sebastian, flanked by pretty structures with azoteas decorated with porcelain
pots of flowering plants and little shaded gardens full of shrubs of gardenias
and shadows, he reached the calzada of Sampaloc where the dust formed a
cloud at the wake of the carriages, calesas and horses richly harnessed.
The world of delight was brought to Sta. Mesa like a large nimbus of gold and
silk by Spanish mestizas who had skin like porcelain and Indias with coppery
skins, their hair tied in a knot, displaying long skirts of many colors
reminding him of the gypsies of his homeland.
He arrived in Santa Mesa avid to observe like a newly arrived
child in the country. There was a great gathering of Spaniards and foreigners
dressed in white suits, while the ladies wore their famous piña skirts and airy
blouses.
It seemed as though everyone stared at him as a new person.
General Alaminos, Gov. General and the Civil Governor Carrascon, occupied the
grandstand decorated in rich clothes of red velvet; the trophies that were to be
presented to the victors shone in the tropical sun. Swift as the wind, the
horses pranced onto the track; Imparcial, Mosquito, Albay, and other horses
ridden by distinguished military and enthusiastic foreign youngsters with the
objective of fighting for that trophy. The native ponies were so alive, so
gallant, and so strong that if they had been five or six inches taller they
would have been mistaken for Arab or Andalusian.
The person to his right without his being able to identify as
mestizo or native was making notes on a racing sheet that he got from his pocket
and asked him:
"I’m for Mosquito, Señor. And you?"
His words: "I looked at him with envy since I was perspiring
in a closed jacket and trousers of silk and satin that I had worn thinking to
make an impression. He wore a loose rich shirt of piña that I later learned was
worth P100 with diamond buttons in the chest and in the wrists, beautiful watch
chain of gold that sparkled under the sun’s rays, a pair of linen pants and
patent leather shoes.
"Bueno," I answered, "you’re for Mosquito and I will be for
whoever you wish.
"How do you bet? he asked.
"Whatever you wish.
"We’ll bet P20 if you wish.
"Forty also if you want."
We lost. He wanted to reimburse me but I refused. It turned
out he was the former gobernadorcillo of Pandacan. The other people present were
the Tuasons, the Ayalas, the Casals, Roxas, Ortiz de Zarate, Vizmanos, the
Captain General, and the commander of the Navy plus a host of others he didn’t
know.
Entrala speaks of dinner dances that people called Katapusan
meaning final or end. It’s a word frequently used that the researcher runs into
frequently in accounts of fiestas or any celebration and was in effect a dinner
dance. It wasn’t all of that different from present day fetes where guests show
off their jewelry and showy gowns, dancing till they drop following the music of
sometimes more than one orchestra. In between dance numbers guests would chew
betel nut if they wished or smoked tobacco, ate sweets and partook of wine or
beer. The buffet table displayed turkey, ham, lamb, roast pig, chicken, asado of
cow or veal. The songs they sang were in Spanish or local "habaneras" written by
Arche and Masaguer or other masters of the genre such as Peres, Luna or
Castaneda who also wrote La Mestiza.
Entrala mentions the sculptors of his day as Arevalo,
Salgado, Murriel, Tampinco, Romualdo T. de Jesus. Painters included Hidalgo
referred to as Resurreccion although there is no mention of Luna yet; Felix
Martinez painted a portrait of the Marquez de Estella (wouldn’t you love to know
where that ended up?), Guerrero and the then young Zaragozas and Villanueva.
Resurreccion presented a painting called "Siesta" to Alfonso XII.
(Francisco Entrala, Olvidos de Filipinas, 1881)